Gold and jadeite shine with autumn's hues in the capital city, as China's leading jewelry brand, Chow Tai Fook, recently unveiled its latest high jewelry collection, Timeless Harmony, alongside pieces from the Chow Tai Fook Palace Museum Collection in Beijing.

Set within the tranquil surroundings of the Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, where antique charm intertwines with light and shadow, the exhibition captures the essence of traditional Chinese aesthetics through the artistry of jewelry.

Unfolding in three chapters — Timeless Harmony, Palace Museum, and Classic & Gold — the showcase radiates serene elegance, revealing Eastern aesthetics and romance.

Among the highlights, the "Heaven & Earth" draws inspiration from ancient Chinese philosophy and the cosmological supposition of "a round heaven and a square earth". The designs interpret the universe through the simplicity of circles and squares, transforming the vast cosmos into exquisite, wearable jewelry, that reflects the timeless meditations on space and time.

"Heaven & Earth" is crafted with carefully selected, high-clarity diamonds and Feicui (jadeite in Chinese). The pieces appear in both round and square cuts, echoing the philosophy of "a round heaven and a square earth". Round, high-domed rose-cut diamonds evoke the constellation's fluid grace while imparting a sense of classical elegance. Bespoke baguette-cut square diamonds, sharp and angular, convey modernity while refracting the timeless philosophy of the universe.

Timeless Harmony's Joie pieces reinterpret the Chinese character "Xi" (喜, joy) through geometric deconstruction, turning happiness into a tangible form. Minimalist yet expressive, the Joie Collection features carefully selected customized baguette-cut diamonds. This cut gives diamonds clean lines, and its gentle radiance conveys the solemnity and vitality of joy. Layered with diamonds, colored gemstones, Feicui, and pearls, the composition uses colors to set the tone, placing circles within squares, expressing refined brilliance.

"Palace" celebrates the elegance and exquisite craftsmanship of imperial architecture, translating its harmonious order and balance into gem-set masterpieces. Each piece is a meticulous microcosm of architectural mastery, encapsulating the balance of heaven and earth. The expertly crafted designs merge the beauty of axial symmetry and proportions with meticulous craftsmanship.

"Lotus", meanwhile, captures the flower's serene grace, evoking dew-kissed petals.

October marks the 100th anniversary of the Palace Museum, whose timeless relics have inspired Chow Tai Fook's design team to create the Palace Museum collection.

During the high jewelry show, Nicholas Lieou, Creative Director of High Jewelry at Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, shared his passion and understanding of jewelry, Feicui, and Chinese philosophy, and the poetic essence that defines his design language.

"We really want to communicate the beauty of China. My interpretation of the beauty of China is the soul and emotion behind the jewelry pieces," he said. "So through Timeless Harmony, we have three different pillars of design: architecture, philosophy, and innovation. Under architecture, we have Palace, Gate, Great Wall, and also Roof Tiles. Under philosophy, we have Lotus, Joie and Heaven & Earth."

Born in Hong Kong, China, and raised in the UK and then New York, Lieou was deeply shaped by his Shanghai-born parents, who brought him and his brother back to China every year when they were young.

"So I really understood from a young age how China has developed until now and it's a wonderful, proud moment to be able to see how far we have come. A lot of the world has not really understood how far we have come for the country to be so advanced, but in a very harmonious way."

"I remember going to the Forbidden City from the age of eight. I was amazed that it is literally a city, made up of multiple palaces."

It took Lieou and his craftsmen about four years to finish the collection. "We wanted to make sure we were respectful to each theme," he said. "I designed every piece, and the design team went through all the stones. We started with a theme, and then did the sketches. Once we settled on the design, we either sourced or cut the gemstones."

"I really like his design. It embodies the Chinese philosophy of being 'round on the outside, square on the inside', as well as the concept of 'less is more'. The Lotus design captures purity emerging from the mud, a trait we Chinese greatly admire," said Kent Wong, Managing Director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group.

For the piece Lotus, the designer chose tension-setting instead of prong-setting the diamonds.

"We didn't prong set. We could have, but didn't. Tension-setting aligns with the lotus philosophy, it gives the jewelry soul. We also use Feicui because this material is a special gemstone; it glows from within. This is the idea of the philosophy of a lotus. It's you; the stillness inside of yourself is meant to radiate outward."

Elegant, modern, and graphic are three words Lieou used to describe his design. "I think modernity is key. By distilling elements into clean graphic ways, we convey both theme and emotion.

"I really designed it for a contemporary lifestyle. Its jewelry meant to move with you, from the gym to lunch."

Born in Hong Kong, China, Lieou pursued jewelry design studies at renowned institutions in London and New York, such as Central Saint Martin, the Royal College of Arts, and the Fashion Institute of Technology.

"I loved art and design from a young age, but I didn't know which industry, which creative industry to be in. And then going to the UK, the schooling there guided me, and I ended up in the jewelry industry. I'm very happy because what I really love about jewelry, especially high jewelry, is that in a very small object, fine details make a big difference, the way the diamond is set, the way the angle of the metal is finished, and the detailing."

Lieou designed a collection for Sotheby's Diamonds in 2020. His design philosophy is inspired by his diverse background and international upbringing, seamlessly blending the artistry of the East and the West.

After being in the UK and in New York for many years, coming back to Hong Kong, China and especially Chow Tai Fook is a wonderful homecoming for Lieou.

"Chow Tai Fook is very much ingrained and intertwined in the fabric of this city. I remember going to Chow Tai Fook as a child and my parents buying gold nuggets for weddings. That tradition stayed with me. Creating high jewelry for Chow Tai Fook feels like celebrating Chinese culture through craftsmanship."

Since its founding in 1929 in Guangzhou, Chow Tai Fook has developed high-level craftsmanship in processing materials such as gold, diamonds, Feicui, and pearls. They have always aspired to create high jewelry.

"With over 40 years of economic reform and opening-up, China's economy has rapidly developed, and consumer demand for luxury jewelry has increased. There is a significant demand for high jewelry materials and craftsmanship. Therefore, we believe now is an opportune time to launch Chow Tai Fook's high jewelry line. Additionally, as a Chinese jewelry brand, we wish to showcase the beauty of China to the world through jewelry," said Wong.

"The jewelry industry carries cultural significance. We can contribute to the national economic development while also promoting Chinese culture nd aesthetics abroad. Outside China, we have already established a strong market in Southeast Asia, such as in Malaysia and Singapore. In the future, we aim to expand further into international markets."